Ugens Smagstest: Remi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc 2013

Taste Test of the Week: Remi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc 2013

White Burgundy is almost as mythical as its red counterpart. These are great wines that connoisseurs flock to, which has unfortunately also sent prices skyrocketing in recent years.

However, it is not just wine snobbery and investment opportunities that make Burgundy interesting: The soil conditions are unique, and Burgundy has been synonymous with the concept of terroir.

Remi Jobard good Burgundy

While red Burgundy is almost exclusively made from the Pinot Noir grape, the whites are most often made from Chardonnay. This week's Taste Test comes from the heart of the white Burgundy; Mersault. Here, Remi Jobard makes white wine, and even though the Jobard family has been making wine in Mersault for the past 500 years, that doesn't mean you have to be bound by tradition.

When Remi Jobard took over the vineyard from his father in the mid-1990s, he set out not to revolutionize, but at least redefine the way wine was made in Mersault. First and foremost by converting the vineyard to organic production - the wines are still made traditionally, but without pesticides, the sulfur level has been lowered, but a little sulfur is still added - so this is not natural wine!

Remi Jobard is also known for having a special approach to barrel aging of his wines. Previously, Mersault's white wines were known for having a certain barrel character, and a tendency to be quite "heavy" in the aftertaste. At Jobard, barrel aging is still used, but with barrels from Austrian Stockinger. At Stockinger, the barrels are made from a mixture of French, German and Austrian oak, and the wood is gently dried for 3 years, twice as long as normal, before being made into barrels. This helps to give the barrel-aged wine a more "clean" taste, where even the finest nuances in the wine are not drowned out by the barrel flavor.

Taste Test of the Week

Remi Jobard, Burgundy, with his Austrian Stockinger barrels Bourgogne Blanc is a good place to start when getting to know Remi Jobard's white wine. The aroma is fresh and clean, rich in scents of ripe stone fruits like peach, but also hints of citrus and minerals.

On the palate, it cannot escape its oak barrel aging, which is a discreet addition to the very fruit-driven, rich Chardonnay flavor. There is good acidity and plenty of crispness in the still young wine, and the long aftertaste nicely emphasizes the initial aroma, with citrus and apricot in perfect balance.

When it comes to white Burgundy, most people know that we are in the upper echelons of the price spectrum. Therefore, it may sound absurd to describe a wine for 249 kroner as a good deal, but in light of the wine's development potential and the prices of Burgundy in general, it must be said to be a find. I have tasted white Burgundy from Remi Jobard that has been allowed to enjoy 8-10 in the cellar and they are nothing less than excellent, but then we are also up to around 1000 kroner per bottle. So if you are into great white wine or just a good investment, there is no way around Remi Jobard's Burgundies.

Here you can buy Remi Jobard Bourgogne Blanc 2013

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